Depends on what I'm doing. If I'm going to try to do the fastest 1000m I can, then of course I'm cranking that bitch to 10. Incidentally, that's almost all I do on these machines.
I do gay, and then I do RPE6 for 30 minutes. What of it?
https://i.imgur.com/q3826ib.gif
>'people' unironically struggle with it at 10
You literally doing it wrong. >On a bicycle, a high gearing will feel slow and sluggish to start. It is difficult to get the pedals at a high revolutions per minute until the wheel is spinning. This style of cycling takes a lot of muscle. Few cyclists would opt for the hardest gear for an entire race—which is why a damper setting of 10 is rarely (if ever) recommended >High damper and drag settings may lead to injury, since greater force is required to remove the “tank” of air from the flywheel each stroke—especially on the first strokes. >Rowing is cardiovascular; lower damper settings best mimic the sport. >Very low damper settings (like 1) require the athlete to be very quick and light at the catch. >A damper setting of 3-5 is recommended because it provides a comfortable platform for the start and an effective “gearing” for most workouts. >A damper setting of 3 is most appropriate for longer workouts. >A damper setting of 5 is most appropriate for shorter workouts.
The older and dirty the machine is the higher you need to put the fly wheel to hit the correct drag factor consistently. A bike has higher gears as well but you'd be a moron to use them when climbing a hill.
Never been injured, damper setting of 5 feeling uniroinically like I'm pulling an empty chain not attached to anything. I can only realistically see myself dropping to maybe 6 or 7 if I plan to be rowing for more than 10 minutes.
shits not the same as a fucking bike. i cycle a lot and of course its in a mid gear unless going uphill, the row machine has barely any resistance at all even at 10 and honestly i cant even fathom going lower. i sometimes do 30 minutes at 10 and even that feels like bullshit cardio compared to 30 minutes normal cycling
Depends on what I'm doing. If I'm going to try to do the fastest 1000m I can, then of course I'm cranking that bitch to 10. Incidentally, that's almost all I do on these machines.
I do 4 for an hour 4 times a week. It's comfy. I skipped today because I didn't sleep well, but I'll have time on Saturday to round it out. Thanks for reading my blog.
Source me bro I'd love to be incidentally correct.
>wife has one downstairs in the basement >desperately wish i could use it >her ass is getting rounder and firmer >i have freely rotating testicles and one that torsioned before
>add more air for the flywheel to have to spin through >this allegedly does not ALSO increase resistance, it just "make ur muscle more tired"
All this sounds like is 10 makes it take more effort to get the wheel spinning, but once it's already spinning there's no downside. I truly don't get it.
I dont even know the feeling of sub 10, I've always cranked it to the max because at first I thought its the intensity of the air that comes out, so I just want to feel more fresh, l8ke a sea breeze as I row the ship with my mates.
I've found I like a drag factor of 130, which seems to line up with general standards. Folks running it at a 10 for 3 minutes and yanking their back into oblivion don't seem to understand the point of a rowing machine, unfortunately.
Also, just tried rating higher on my sprint intervals and it felt alright. Gonna try to start pushing the rate so I can sit at a 30 for my 5k and 36 for my 2k and see how it goes.
I put mine on 6 and do 30 minutes
Yes. I do a 5 minute warmup at 10 before my workout
Deal with it gay
You literally doing it wrong.
>On a bicycle, a high gearing will feel slow and sluggish to start. It is difficult to get the pedals at a high revolutions per minute until the wheel is spinning. This style of cycling takes a lot of muscle. Few cyclists would opt for the hardest gear for an entire race—which is why a damper setting of 10 is rarely (if ever) recommended
>High damper and drag settings may lead to injury, since greater force is required to remove the “tank” of air from the flywheel each stroke—especially on the first strokes.
>Rowing is cardiovascular; lower damper settings best mimic the sport.
>Very low damper settings (like 1) require the athlete to be very quick and light at the catch.
>A damper setting of 3-5 is recommended because it provides a comfortable platform for the start and an effective “gearing” for most workouts.
>A damper setting of 3 is most appropriate for longer workouts.
>A damper setting of 5 is most appropriate for shorter workouts.
Get your frail, woman like, bitch body out of here. It has 10 on the machine for a fucking reason, cunt
The older and dirty the machine is the higher you need to put the fly wheel to hit the correct drag factor consistently. A bike has higher gears as well but you'd be a moron to use them when climbing a hill.
If they wanted me to treat the knob on this machine like I do the gears on a bike they would have put it somewhere I could adjust it mid-workout.
kek
This cope
>retard not understanding how a machine works
Ya I'm sure coping here.
>retard not understanding how a machine works
the irony
Never been injured, damper setting of 5 feeling uniroinically like I'm pulling an empty chain not attached to anything. I can only realistically see myself dropping to maybe 6 or 7 if I plan to be rowing for more than 10 minutes.
shits not the same as a fucking bike. i cycle a lot and of course its in a mid gear unless going uphill, the row machine has barely any resistance at all even at 10 and honestly i cant even fathom going lower. i sometimes do 30 minutes at 10 and even that feels like bullshit cardio compared to 30 minutes normal cycling
I don't know what kind of weak womanly bitches ya'll are but even this feels like almost nothing.
The machines are never maintained well enough to go by damper setting
You need to adjust it and check the drag factor and be at around 110-130
t. D1 rower
How's your back?
My upper back is pretty huge
>D1 rower
The question is, for someone who isn't an athlete does drag factor / training for "Real water" even matter?
it allows you to compare your performance to others
Depends on what I'm doing. If I'm going to try to do the fastest 1000m I can, then of course I'm cranking that bitch to 10. Incidentally, that's almost all I do on these machines.
I do gay, and then I do RPE6 for 30 minutes. What of it?
Every time I walk past it I crank it to 10, do a 720 and walk away
>'people' unironically struggle with it at 10
I didn't know they had a difficulty setting dial on the side. I wonder if the ones at my gym do thinking emoji.
Bro you can’t even pull 10 on the deadlift machine bro?
i put 4. i think it's the closest resistance similar to water
My C2 has been on 10 since I bought it 3 years ago. Anything less is gay shit.
I do it on four because I read that gives you the most gains.
I do 4 for an hour 4 times a week. It's comfy. I skipped today because I didn't sleep well, but I'll have time on Saturday to round it out. Thanks for reading my blog.
Source me bro I'd love to be incidentally correct.
>wife has one downstairs in the basement
>desperately wish i could use it
>her ass is getting rounder and firmer
>i have freely rotating testicles and one that torsioned before
:<
Just tape it up beforehand anon
have you ever had your testicle rotate around inside your body...honest question
Anon was wrong, taping it obviously won't work- what you need is to clamp it in place.
it's not the tape anon
it's the fear
No, but I've heard its like the most painful thing ever.
Pull them backwards, tape around each side. This is simple stuff anon
>add more air for the flywheel to have to spin through
>this allegedly does not ALSO increase resistance, it just "make ur muscle more tired"
All this sounds like is 10 makes it take more effort to get the wheel spinning, but once it's already spinning there's no downside. I truly don't get it.
alright here's the 411 folks. say some dyel is messing your flywheel. you just give em one of these
Mine is set to a 4. Drag factor is between 120 & 130. Idk- I haven't checked in a while
Wtf is that?
Adizumah
Squat plug sizer.
the machines at my gym are probably shit, but cranking it all the way up is still cardio.
Yesterday I did 2600 m in 10min. It was really hard.
I dont even know the feeling of sub 10, I've always cranked it to the max because at first I thought its the intensity of the air that comes out, so I just want to feel more fresh, l8ke a sea breeze as I row the ship with my mates.
I put it on the hardest setting since im not a bitch or a woman
I like your style guy.
thx man. If you're not going hard at the gym why are you going at all?
Anything below 10 feels like I'm not even doing exercise
>shit form and damper at 10
all you see on c2s in public gyms
You're supposed to push with the legs and then use mostly momentum in your arms to pull it to your chest, right?
Dont forget pulling with your hips/glutes/hamstrings
I'm a cardiolet, but at least I know how to pull. This was with a drag factor of 130
Nice work, anon. You doing the Pete Plan?
Thanks
I did it a while ago
Now I alternate between 2x30 min and intervals
I've found I like a drag factor of 130, which seems to line up with general standards. Folks running it at a 10 for 3 minutes and yanking their back into oblivion don't seem to understand the point of a rowing machine, unfortunately.
Also, just tried rating higher on my sprint intervals and it felt alright. Gonna try to start pushing the rate so I can sit at a 30 for my 5k and 36 for my 2k and see how it goes.
These higher rates are really helping me out. With this workout I'm hoping I can break a 19 minute 5k when I attempt it next week.
Is 10 supposed to be the easiest or hardest. I usually have it on 10 because thats what its always on, doesnt seem very hard though.